Recently I traveled to Singapore for the first time. I’d previously had a layover there, but hadn’t stepped foot out of the airport. This time, it was for a friend’s wedding. He’d been an employee at a company in Myanmar where I worked as an *unpaid* intern in the summer of 2016. We hadn’t met since, but he’s made it a point to check in every so often. It’s rare to have friends like those, so when he mentioned he was getting married the last time we chatted, and that he had wanted to invite me but was sure I wouldn’t be able to make it all the way from NYC- I said, why not? If you invite me, I’ll come. He invited me.
It was a 22-hour journey all in all (if you don’t count the time it took to get to the airport for the first leg). I had a short layover in Taipei and landed in Singapore at noon on a Friday. Coincidentally, a friend of mine was working in SG temporarily and said I was welcome to stay at his apartment. He was out of town until the following Monday, however, so I was left to my own devices for a few days.
The weekend did not seem like a good time to do anything remotely touristy, such as walking the botanical gardens. It was also extremely hot and humid, and I was weak after such a long trip. That being said, I probably could have made more of an effort to see the sights.
Day 1- Friday
On my way to pick up my friend’s apartment key, I did some last-minute research on where I should be going to eat in SG. I found an intriguing seafood restaurant called Naked Finn. The only reservation available that I could make was 8:45 the same day, so I locked that in.
After collecting the apartment key, the first order of business was to purchase some clothes. I needed more than two outfits that I could wear in the SG heat that also qualified as smart casual.
I went to the Raffles City mall and spent an hour or so shopping. I came out of it with two buttery tank tops that I love and a pair of black mom jeans that got super comfortable after just two wears. After returning to the apartment for a quick wardrobe change, I headed out for pre-dinner drinks.
My first stop was Club Rangoon. Since 2016, I hadn’t had authentic Burmese food, so I was excited to try their laphet thoke. It was delicious and everything I wanted. On the other hand, their drinks were just so-so. I ordered both the Laphet Martini and the 19th Street cocktails. I had been excited by their descriptions, but their flavor profiles were pretty dull.
Next, I went to The Elephant Room just around the corner. This cocktail bar focuses on South Asian flavors and their signature cocktails are incredibly unique. Their service is also impeccable. I told the bartender I wanted something savory and he recommended the Crab Rasam. This clarified cocktail tasted like a smooth alcoholic broth with a rich umami flavor. The more I sipped on it, the more I became enamored. Unfortunately, I only had time for the one drink, but I made a note to go back on Monday the next time they opened so that I could try their Chicken Curry. I also had a very nice chat with one of the patrons sitting at the bar next to me. He recommended Mixology Salon, a bar specializing in tea-based cocktails that would be closing at the end of the month.
I made it to Naked Finn only slightly late. I ordered a glass of brut, the oyster I had been thinking about since I made the reservation, and the chawanmushi. By the time the champagne and the oyster came, I was already crashing from the jet lag. The oyster was very good, and I ordered another one immediately after eating the first one.
At this point, I hadn’t slept for about 24 hours, so I completely forgot about taking photos for the rest of the meal. Unfortunately, that means the best dish of the trip didn’t make it into my photo roll.
The waiter who introduced the menu to me mentioned they were out of a few things, and that some were modified for the night. One of the modified items was the claypot rice. Originally, it was a “‘Nasi ulam’ donabe (claypot)” with yellow croaker (Larimichthys polyactis)- binchotan grilled, ulam herbs, sambal matah, Koshihikari rice. Instead, they had a Hong Kong-style claypot rice. At first I was dubious- I grew up there, after all- but after perusing the rest of the menu, I decided I’d go for it.
That dish was delicious. I was savoring every bite even though I really wanted to be in bed, asleep. They served it with flair, removing the lid at the table and showing the perfect, slightly charred fish resting on a bed of rice with a fragrant soy dressing and a generous amount of scallion and ginger on top. The waiter then took two spoons and thoroughly mixed the contents in front of me. I watched the dark soy sauce get dispersed evenly onto the white rice and I salivated. The dish really was reminiscent of the classic whole steamed fish with scallion, ginger, and soy sauce, and a sizzling neutral oil poured over the top to unlock the flavors of the aromatics.
I dined and (got the bill and) dashed. Fell asleep 3 times on a 15 minute trip back to the apartment.
Day 2- Saturday
I woke up bright and early at around 6 (thanks, jet lag). Even though it was an ungodly hour, my stomach complained about being empty, so I got up and headed to Lau Pa Sat in search of sustenance. What I really wanted was some wholesome noodle soup or something like that, but once I got to the hawker center around 8, it was very unclear which stalls were actually open and which were not. Online, it had said one of the places opened at 7, but I was turned away as I was looking at their menu. I got pretty intimidated and ended up just getting some dim sum. Braised chicken feet and pork ribs, yum! It didn’t help that right around when I arrived, hordes of runners started pouring in.
For lunch, I had booked a spot at Sushi Hare すし晴. It was on a list of best restaurants in SG, and I was intrigued by the description I read of the Taiwanese Chef Angus and his method. Honestly, it blew me away. I was able to try two things I had not tried before- tuna chin and fresh salmon roe, still within the egg membrane (sujiko). Tuna chin was not my favorite due to the fattiness of the cut, but the texture was certainly interesting. The salmon roe was a divine experience. It was pure umami, almost sweet, not at all fishy or slimy in the slightest. The best salmon roe I’ve ever eaten.
In the afternoon I started crashing and thought, why not go to Mixology Salon and kill two birds with one stone? I can pre-game and get caffeinated at the same time. (I’m kidding. About the pre-game part.)
To be honest, I was disappointed. The Matcha Godfather that I ordered was cloyingly sweet and lacked the fragrance I had expected from the matcha. I quickly finished and left to catch my cable car to the venue.
I had worried that I would feel too awkward at the wedding, given the groom was the only person I knew, but he had placed me with some of his other ex-coworkers who were very welcoming and fun. The wedding itself was very cute! They had some activities that “tested” how well the bride and groom knew each other, and they told some entertaining stories. I held out as long as I could, but once the desserts started coming out I couldn’t stay awake any longer, took a quick photo with him and the bride, and went back to the apartment.
Day 3- Sunday
I had done some research and found a Korean restaurant called Um Yong Baek that specializes in dweji (daeji?) gukbap (pork and rice soup). I made a reservation for right when they opened. They weren’t quite open yet when I stepped out so I loitered at Lau Pa Sat and bought some pancakes from Munchis because they just looked so irresistibly chewy, even though I’m not a big dessert person.
I got a little confused with the system and asked the table next to me if they had ordered already, since the waiter had not come by. They told me to just flag them down, and we got to chatting after that. They were very nice and asked me about where I’d been, and also recommended some places.
I ordered the thick daejigukbab (bottom left in the menu picture). It was filling and wholesome. I was a little bummed that I wasn’t able to try their KBBQ, which is only available for dinner (no time and nobody to go with).
I didn’t do much in the afternoon. I walked back to the apartment and took a nap. When I got up I figured I should probably get some food, so I found a place called Oyster Bank that did a deal on oysters and cocktails (I know, coming from the East Coast I probably could have picked something better). After that, I walked to Sago House, a bar where their menu changes based on the ingredients in season.
It was a struggle to even order- they sat me at the bar and immediately left. Then, a server came by and asked if someone had explained the menu (no). She said she’d give me some time to consider, then left and did not come by for about 10 minutes, during which time she sat several other people, took their orders, and then chatted with the bartender while I tried to catch her eye. Finally, someone was sat next to me and I leaned over and flagged her down while she was getting that patron water.
I got the Thyme for a change– Havana Club 3 Yrs, orange, lemon, thyme, and absinthe. It was ok. When it arrived, I asked for the check because I was worried I would never get out of there at that rate.
To be honest, I wish I never went there. The premise of seasonal cocktails only is one I can get behind, but the experience was one of the worst I’ve ever had. Not at all worth it, and for some reason it’s on some list for one of the best bars in Asia. I can’t recommend this bar.
Day 4 – Monday
My friend arrived back at the apartment at around 2 am in the morning (that was why I took a nap in the afternoon). We chatted a bit and then both of us crashed. The next day he rushed out to work and I had a leisurely morning, then headed out to meet him for lunch. We went to a multi-story food court near his office and then he took me to a matcha place nearby that I had been struggling to find. We made plans to meet for dinner at Song Fa for bak kut teh.
In the afternoon, I had meant to go to the gardens by the bay, but it was pouring the whole day. I just rested in the apartment, then headed out a little early before dinner so I could go to Elephant Room again.
The chicken curry was not what I was expected, in a not so great way. It was still a good cocktail, but nowhere near as tasty as the crab rasam. I also tried the King of Toddy, and that wasn’t my favorite either. I could see how both were good, but they weren’t to my personal preference.
I took a Grab to meet my friend for dinner, where we may have ordered too much food.
I don’t have much to say about Song Fa. It’s popular for a reason- quick, cheap, and wholesome foods. Bak kut teh is pretty similar to the soups my mom made, so nothing out of the ordinary for me. It’s a good place to go as a tourist if you haven’t had that kind of thing before. I enjoyed it.
We walked back to the apartment. It was a decent walk, not too long, but after not living in SE Asia for almost 10 years, the humidity and temperature absolutely ruined me. I was ready to shower and pass out as soon as we got back.
Day 5- Tuesday
Rinse and repeat of yesterday morning. We got lunch and went up to a roofed garden area in the office building he used to work at. It was a nice little oasis. We had pasta, he took me up to the roof, where I swear I almost got heatstroke. He went back to work, and I escaped back to the air conditioned refuge of his apartment. I took another nap in preparation for the night’s activities- I had planned dinner/drinks with my just-married friend and my college friend.
My just-married friend got off work earlier than I thought he would, so I rushed to get ready and then met him at at The Elephant Room (yes, again), where I learned that he had actually never had a proper cocktail before, and didn’t really drink liquor. For some reason this had not occurred to me. I guess looking back, he didn’t really drink when we went out in Yangon back in 2016. Fortunately, he explained that it wasn’t really a conscious choice, because I had purchased an expensive bottle of Kavalan for him as a wedding present. I ended up finishing both of our crab rasams (happily). My other friend came to meet us and we walked over to The Public Izakaya where I had made a reservation.
Not too much to say about the izakaya. It was a good vibe for conversation, had a pretty decent selection for food, and had draft Japanese beer. All I can really ask for. There was a chicken cartilage skewer that was really just cartilage without the fat that usually comes with it. I loved that one.
Eventually our reservation time at Jigger and Pony arrived. I was entertained to find the mall that the izakaya is next door to also provides access to the hotel that the bar is in. We took a short stroll and were shown in shortly. I had been excited for this bar the whole trip. In particular, I wanted to try the Ugly Tomatoes. We all ordered one cocktail each, but then they both said they were done and encouraged me to get whatever I want (lol). I was planning on treating them anyway, so I didn’t feel too guilty doing that considering I didn’t know the next time I would be back.
It was a fun night catching up with my friends, and I was glad they got along well too.
Day 6- Wednesday (Departure)
My mom asked me to buy bak kut teh packets, so my friend rushed to the closest grocery with me in the morning to buy them. I had to go to the airport immediately afterwards. Then I was off to Taipei!